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On food

My favorite way to explore new cities is through food.  Food provides the pretext for venturing to neighborhoods beyond the major attractions and a medium for tapping into local culture. The first step...

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Leaving for Turkey

In 2011, I visited Turkey for the first time. It was love at first sight. From the idyllic beaches and Roman ruins of the southern Mediterranean coast to the ancient cave churches and dwellings of...

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Midyat, Turkey

  Midyat, another ancient city in northern Mesopotamia, was historically defined by its large population of Syriac Christians.  In fact, for much of history it was known by its Syriac name, Tur Abdin....

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Hasankeyf, Turkey

I was not prepared for the allure of Hasankeyf. My guidebook had called it a “heartbreaker” and I had seen the photos of its famed minaret and stone bridge. Yet, I had not expected much from this...

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Sanliurfa, Turkey

Sanliurfa, also known simply as Urfa, is a holy city. Islamic pilgrims flock here to honor the birthplace of the prophet Abraham. The most iconic site in Urfa is the Balıklı Göl, or Pool of Sacred...

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Zeugma Mosaic Museum

A few weeks ago, I wrote about the construction of the Ilisu dam that is scheduled to flood the ancient city of Hasankeyf. The dam will bring electricity and water to the region, but will destroy the...

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